Saturday, March 27, 2010

A challenge

Spain on a budget (he says...)

We've had a 4 week break from our travels and this has given us the chance to catch up with some post winter maintenance on our old Spanish house. And, with the 'luxury' of broadband, an opportunity to get a lot more work done and content/features added onto our Club Motorhome website.

Well, we're itching to get back on the road again and have decided that we will head across southern Spain with Portugal as our target. We intend to do this trip on a strict budget and plan to spend no more than we would by staying at home. Of course, we don't have to budget for any ferry crossings so the only potential extra cost is fuel. By our reckoning, the amounts we save on water, electricity, logs, fuel for the car and 'excess'  food shopping will let us break even - we'll see...

So the route will take in Aires where possible, which is our preference anyway, and we will avoid any road tolls - again our normal preference. The basic route plan is as follows:


The Aires en route are:
  • Ibi
  • Cartegena
  • Venta el Peral
  • Alcaudete
  • Cabra
  • Valverde del Camino
  • Tavira

 Very happy to hear advice from others who may know of some good stopping places close to this route.

If all seems to be going according to our budget planning we'll then spend a little while exploring southern Portugal as it seems that the weather has improved following the attrocious winter. Inspired by some of the excellent blogs I've been reading we'll stay at some great sounding wildcamp spots. We have little experience of wildcamping and, although we are happy with our leisure battery and solar panel arrangements, it seems water and waste capacities will dictate how long one can stay in such places, again, we'll see....

Mission Impossible? (she says...)

Getting the call of the wild when no extra budget has been set aside can be frustrating to say the least.

A challenge they say is good, and so in the spirit of research for clubmotorhome and not, of course, because there are some
 fabulous fiestas to experience during the very important Easter 'celebrations' here in Spain. We have decided to set off again

With three very important aims:
- the first to spend no more per day than our 'home' budget
- the second to limit our fuel to our 'home' energy costs - this includes electric, wood, gas, and water.
- to have fun and experience what the southern areas of Spain and, fingers crossed Portugal, have to offer us. This is of course
 without spending over 'budget'.

When at 'home' I figure we live reasonably on 100 euros a week for food, diesel and the odd 'pint'. It does not cover celebrations, birthdays, catastrophes or clothes or any of the extras that come along. So the blog for this trip will include a brief expenditure up date, to let you know how I am facing up to the challenge.

Diesel is likely to be the problem due to its ever increasing cost. The one card we have tucked up our sleeve is that we are pretty sure we are starting on nearly a full tank - I'll let you know.

Speak to you on Monday.....

Saturday, February 27, 2010

26th Feb - 23 degrees and rising....

She says...

Well this is the last blog of this part of our journey.

An early start and we make our way from snow patches decorating the high hill to the odd tree bursting into blossom. The lower the altitude we reach the more trees are in bloom until in parts the landscape is a carpet of pink and white blossom. Sadly as we approach the coast the ugly buildings and over development become the norm' and we look forward to the route the east side of Valencia which takes us through the town and then down through the paddy fields and the natural park of Albufera.. Unfortunately whilst the waders are about by the score there is just nowhere to pull in to get any snaps. We did however see some heron, egret and grebe I think. My eyesight can be limited at a distance and I am no bird spotter although I think I may treat myself to some binoculars and a bird book. People still distrust me when I tell them I saw pink flamingoes there once!

After our old favourite lunch of bocadillos we catch up with our weekend shop before heading on towards Daimus. Our final stopping point before returning home and spending sometime at out lovely village house away from the madding crowds about 20 minutes inland from here.

Will blog if anything motorhome turns up otherwise I'll write again next time we are on the road in a month or so!

He says...

A good nights sleep, despite the buffeting wind and then a nice leisurely start to today with only about 3 hours drive ahead of us. The route we took has become familiar to us over the last year or so but the scenery changes so subtlely with the seasons. as we came down from the mountains onto the plains the fruit and nut blossoms increased massively, so tempted by the sight we pulled into a 'cami' for some pics...




For once we ignored TomTom and headed through Valencia rather than round it knowing that we would pass the incredible Arts and Science buildings - worthy of a visit of their own.

 
Valencia Arts & Science buildings
  
Cheating slightly as these were taken on a previous visit


Our only other stop was just a brief call in at the resort of Far, just north of Cullera, a very Spanish resort and therefore very quiet outside the Spanish summer season.



By early afternoon we arrived at our nightstop beachside at Daimus, a suburb of Gandia. The parking is informal wildcamping but seems to be well tolerated and popular. 4 other British vans this time, the other times we have visited (by car) the visitors have always been from elsewhere in Europe - word must be spreading!

Sea mist and sunrise at Daimus

Reading the Spanish press we were, I suppose, not really surprised to discover that Northern Spain had been having terrible gales. Winds of 100mph had been recorded uprooting many trees - this was in the region of our nightstop there in Renteria - see we weren't exaggerating!

Tomorrow we'll be back at our Spanish base for a week or two. First job will be to upload this blog as we have been out of the range of wifi for days.

25th Feb - Exploring a castle

She says...

Totally refreshed we wake up and, because we are staying again tonight, we take a relaxing wake up and then a walk up to the town of Morella to get a bit of shopping for todays food.

What a fabulous place - full of narrow streets, steps, loads of shopping and all topped by the fabulouse castle, oh and did I mention the steps! Still under restoration we decide to splash out two whole euro to visit the castle and are very pleased we did. So after many steps we reach the top. That was after a lot of steps you understand! A fantastic panorama with distant views all around. There's still patchy snow in the higher mountains in the distance.

Descent was naturally so much easier although that was when I noticed my thigh muscles - a total surprise as I had forgotten I had them, so infrequent has our exercise been this trip. Still only two more days and I can recommence swimming.

Luckily for us the bread shop also sold beer. A little refreshment later we carry on our journey back towards the Aire - who put that long drawn out uphill in since we had climbed to the town I do not know? Oh and by this time the sun is shining like a summers day. Thankfully it waited until we had climbed all of those steps!

He says...

Cloudy with lovely warm sunny spells today. Just right for a walk up to the town of Marella. A walled fortress in its time, it has been carefully restored and other than houses comprises shops, bars and restaurants along its narrow cobbled streets. Hilly would be an understatement, but we climbed to the level of the church and saw a notice explaining the castle above is open to visitors. Not wanting to miss the opportunity we bought a couple of tickets and wandered around and upwards to the top. The restoration is an ongoing work and seems to be very sympatheically done.

The views from the higher levels were quite amazing helped by such a clear day. Some photos:


 

  

 


Back down to high street level we couldn't resist a beer at one of the bars and were delighted to be back in the land of sensible pricing - none of the inflated French prices here! After another 20 minutes walking back to the motorhome we were happy to just have our lunch and put our feet up for the rest of the afternoon.

Our compatriates from yesterday had all departed in their different directions and a new UK registered arrival has parked up. We met the occupants briefly as we walked down from the town. We recommended the castle visit and judging by the tired expressions they had on their faces when they returned I think they took our advice.

24th Feb - Wind in the night

She says...

Oh what a night! What with him and his bad back and me certain that a tree would fall on us any time, very little sleep and a lot of solitaire was endured.

Just what is needed for a long journey ahead. Still, a steady journey passes initially some lovely scenery and then Zaragoza - well I guess it must have it's good bits! Maybe we should try a visit to it, rather than bypass it. After Zaragoza and into Aragon you notice the change in the landscape. I always think it is a little unearthly with great fields interrupted abrubtly by little mounds. A bit like upside downs craters, or for those geologists out there............??? Anyway onto Morella and our first stop totally surrounded by English speakers. made quite a nice change really.

A totally shameful early night - lets say nineish!

He says...

Another sleepless night partly due to my back but also the strength of the gales blowing outside seriously buffeting the van. The expectation was for one of the many surrounding trees to fall on us at any time. Eventually the morning came and we both prepared for the long drive ahead. Breakfast and services sorted we set the route on TomTom and started our 450km journey.

The roads were great, mostly smooth motorways and main roads. Normally we like to stay on back roads and take in the surroundings but today we were happy to keep our speed up and just see the terrain pass by. We are always struck by the difference in the towns and landscapes entering Spain from France, everything seems to be 'rougher', more rugged and has a very different sort of charm. Pretty French villages give way to functional, outwardly grubby housing - although we know from our own experiences that it is the insides of Spanish houses that are kept immaculately. Green, almost Alpine, scenery becomes arid plains and looks like a Wild West film set. Further south into Spain the fruit and nut trees become predominant with acres of olives and masses of pretty pink almond blossom developing (a little late this year?).

We were in need of some drinking water (we use bottled for drinking) so called into a garage for some. Unfortunately the place was shut but as we sat on the forecourt a young lady came out to see what we wanted, then opened up the shop just to sell us a couple of bottles - can't imagine that sort of service elsewhere.

Arriving at the aire in Morella we were pleased to see another couple of vans parked up, and British as well, Roz and Duncan in their Burstner, Joan and Dennis in their Timberland and an Irishman and his dog who's names I forgot to ask. We said hi and passed the time of day - nice to chat with other travellers with similar experiences.

Really tired by now so another super home made curry and a very early night, maybe catch up on some lost sleep.


 
Clear Spanish sky

23rd Feb - The sun has got his hat on!

She says...

The coast just across the road from the Aire is absolutely stunning. We walked along the pathway towards Spain and its lovely mountains which we think we can see in the distance still have a little snow. Today however it is the rollers that are just breathtaking, smashing down on a few rocks that lie just off the waters edge. An old gentleman speaking in a language we recognise  that is Spanish tells us that the birds perched on top of the rocks are cormorants and that they can see fish from 200 metres away! Wish we understood French as well as we do Spanish and that is far from great!

After our walk we decide to leave and take a drive around the coastline - a repeat of what we had driven when travelling up to UK in December only in reverse of course! We will have a lunch along the way. We miss every turn off along the way drive through Hendaye Plage and end up in Spain and before long at the Aire we had settled on for the night! We decide not to stay as although it seems well set up, it is simply a car park so we head for Renteria which is also, just a car park, this time in the middle of nowhere. Oh well, if I don't sleep it'll only be another night not sleeping well. It is very windy and a little wild - well good night!

He says...

Not much sleep due to back twinges at every move but an early start nonetheless. Bright sunshine and tee shirt weather at last! Another walk down along the shoreline to wonder at the power of those Atlantic waves.




We watched a group of cormorants sitting out on a rock - they seemed to be defying the sea to move them and they won!

 

  

  

 
Drying out!


Deciding to move on to find a beachside lunch stop we set off for St Jean de Luz and the coast road. But, unable to stop at the only likely looking spot we carried on and suddenly found ourselves across the (non) border and into Spain!

Our plan was to go to Donostia San Sebastian and stay at the aire there. Its very urban at the rear of a university and too much  'concrete' for us so we upped sticks again and moved slightly inland to Renteria. The aire is at a picnic spot in what seems to be the middle of nowhere but we're staying the night anyway!



Other than the occasional vehicle passing it is very remote here. Mountains all around so very scenic and great for walks if we were staying longer. We're well topped up batterywise and we have enough water and tank capacity to be self sufficient. The aire has water and waste services anyway to use before we leave tomorrow.

So, hopefully, tonight will be a quiet one and tomorrow we'll set off on the long haul south towards Valencia on the other side of the country. Our target is Morella, a walled fortress town high in the mountains........

22nd Feb - On the road again

She says...

We made our getaway as planned and so far I have not been driving.

Southwards we travel first to Seignosse to have a look at wherre we knew an Aire was being renovated or constructed. seems to be all singing and dancing with the lovely bollards that you think will rise into the cab beside you just as you pass over it. We decide to give it a miss and go on to Contis Plage. Certainly a lovely place but with the weather we were having thought it might be a little wild. took a walk to the beach and decided once more to move on. This time to Capbreton where we stopped for lunch but with everything turned off we decided to move on again.

So finally we make it to Biarritz and with quick visit to the beach it is now time to make dinner and with electric thrown in of course, another film - our stock will run down very quickly at this rate. Our supernarket purchases from Christmas gift money are keeping us well entertained so thanks Mum and Dad and also John who saved us all his Daily Mail freebies! Poorly back

Not before I demand a little cruelly that my poor old photographer attempts the sunset. Think he did good!

He says...

24 hours later there was a little improvement in my back so we headed off after a leisurely start to the day. We called in at an aire at Contis Plage just a little further down the coast but didn't stay as there was little to see - Mimizan kind of spoils you! The next stop was Capbreton where we had spent a couple of days last summer, it's a very busy aire with all services available..... not this time! 4 or 5 vans were there, no electricity available and the water services were all disrupted due to construction work. So, a quick look at the beach and we were off again.


Our original plan was to stop at St Jean de Luz before leaving France but, I had been given advice that it was a very small aire and quite noisy so we chose Biarritz instead. A very busy aire but plenty of space and close to the southern end of the town and the fabulous shoreline. 10 Euro for the night - our most expensive nightstop yet - sad to see some motorhomers departing just before the police arrive to collect, then reappear for the night after the police have left. I still wasn't up to much walking but, encouraged to do so, went down to the beach at sunset with my camera - what a fantastic place!



21st Feb - Another day at Mimizan

She says...

Another day in Mimizan and we saw so much more sunshine. The beach itself takes on a whole new look from moody and menacing to warm and inviting. Plenty of walkers with children and dogs but still this beautiful wide beach looks deserted. We met another English couple today on their way south but they were to be more adventurous than us, apparently going on to Salamanca whereas we had our sights set on the Capbreton area.

Here comes the whoops! Well you will be used to this by now - we have one everyday! In preparation for a fairly (for us) early start the next day we or rather, he, filled up some water bottles we had acquired as we did not wish to get caught out without again and in doing so Mr He-man did his back in - so maybe we won't be going too far tomorrow at all. Anyhow a few laps round the car park told us that it hurt! So who knows what the night and tomorrow will bring - had I better hone my driving skills?

After dinner we watched another film, really enjoying the ready electricity and this time it was Sir Anthony Hopkins and Ryan Gosling in Fracture - a good one if you missed it! Don't think it is that old!

He says...

I picked up 4x5ltr bottles of water to keep as a reserve when my back went - OUCH!!!. Barely able to get back to the van Caroline had to help me inside and get the water in. Feeling a lot of pain I wondered what we were to do next? I'm not actually sure what I did for a while as it hurt to sit, stand, walk or anything. Nurse Caroline recommended that I keep moving so gingerly we tried a stroll around the aire.

One thing was sure - we would be staying at least another day as driving would be out of the question, there could be worse places to be laid up.